Fashion in Paris: From Marie Antoinette to the Battle of Versailles
France has always been known for its extravagant fashion, going way back to the court of King Louis XIV's grandeur in the mid-1600s. Paris Fashion Week is now the epicenter of French fashion, and it is remarkable how France has maintained its fashion dominance even after the overthrow of the monarchy.
Living Like Marie Antoinette
During the late 18th century, the wealthy of France was desperate to live like Queen Marie Antoinette, and their outward appearance reflected that. Fashion was all about showing off money and status with extravagant layers of fabric and embellishments. Women's clothing symbolized their importance in high society, echoing the adage that they should be seen and not heard. The power of fashion drove the textile industry, and the luxurious clothing crafted by the dressmakers helped solidify the high-class fashion concept.
Vive la Révolution
The French Revolution brought about an aversion to luxury and extravagance; people swapped their lavish clothing for utilitarian garments such as aprons and clogs. Society looked to the birthplace of democracy, Greece, for inspiration, and flowing Grecian patterned gowns became the new style. This was topped off with the iconic cockade, a ribbon rosette, which represented the revolution and was seen on everything from shoes to hats. However, this anti-fashion movement was short-lived, as it soon gave way to more fashionable trends.
The Birth of Haute Couture
Paul Poiret's introduction of Eastern-inspired fashion during the early 20th century sparked a revolution in French couture. As art nouveau flourished, Poiret freed women from restrictive corsetry with his extravagant kimonos, sultana skirts, and wide-legged harem pants. His influence was further extended when Coco Chanel debuted her first collection of sailor pants and Breton stripes crafted from more accessible materials. A few decades later, the iconic Jane Birkin added her own spin on these Gallic aesthetics. With this, the cycle of trends continued.
Dior's New Look and Saint Laurent's Trapeze
In the 1950s, Christian Dior revolutionized fashion with his New Look silhouette that cinched in the waist and had a full skirt. This look was soon replaced by Yves Saint Laurent's Trapeze collection, which shifted away from Dior's tight-fitting style. The Trapeze collection featured a looser, more relaxed fit that reflected the changing times.
The Battle of Versailles
It's 1973, and the fashion world is about to experience a seismic shift. Five American designers—Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows—are set to challenge the dominance of the five French superstars—Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Marc Bohan of Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent—in the Battle of Versailles. Celebrities, socialites, and high-society types scrambled to get tickets. The show was made even more unique and energized with the presence of Liza Minnelli, Broadway dancers, and 36 models, ten of them being Black, a revolutionary move at the time. The Americans' bold and unconventional approach to fashion and their use of Black models such as Pat Cleveland created a new era in fashion that ultimately saw the French temporarily relinquish their crown.
Paris Fashion Today
The Battle of Versailles made the French fashion industry recognize America's presence and the importance of sportswear and commerciality. The competition also started the trend of putting on extravagant runway shows. The designs presented at the competition were outrageous, such as a rocket, a gypsy caravan pulled by a rhinoceros, and a full-length limousine. The influence of the Battle of Versailles is still seen today in the fashion shows of famous designers like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Dior.
Today, Paris is still a center for fashion and is home to some of the most iconic fashion designers in the world. From haute couture to ready-to-wear fashions and timeless and classic to the latest trends, Paris is the place to be. Its long fashion history is set to continue with no near end in sight.
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